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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.